Saturday 6 September 2014

BOX FISH

Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Care Level: Expert Only
TemperamentSemi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 10"
Color Form: Black, Blue, Orange, White
Venomous: Poisonous When Stressed or Dies
Diet: Omnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Hawaii, Maldives
Family: Ostraciidae


OVER VIEW:
The Boxfish is also referred to as the Spotted Boxfish, Blue Boxfish, Black Boxfish, or Whitespotted Boxfish. The various names are due to the dimorphic appearance of the male and female. The male is the more colorful of the two, with a vibrant blue body and a wide black swath covering the top of the body like a cap. The entire body is speckled with dots, white on black and black on blue while a thin horizontal stripe of orange adorns the tail. The female is entirely black with white dots.
This is a very difficult fish to keep in the aquarium setting by any other than the most experienced aquarist. It should have a minimum of a 50 gallon tank. Use caution if placing the Boxfish in a reef tank as they will often nibble at tubeworms. When stressed, the Boxfish releases a poisonous substance, called ostracitoxin, from its mucous glands which will kill other fish in the tank very quickly.
Very little success has been achieved in breeding these fish in an aquarium. When first introduced, the Boxfish can be fed a diet of live brine shrimp or bloodworms. After acclimatization, chopped squid, clams, mussels, and herbivore preparations can be fed.
Approximate Purchase Size: Small Female: 1" to 2"; Medium Female: 2" to 3; Large Female: 3" to 5"; Male: 3" to 4"

TIN FOIL FISH


Tinfoil Barb Factoids
OriginSoutheast Asia
Temperature70 to 80F
Size16 inches, 12 more likely
Age 10+ years
SubstrateImmaterial
SecuritySpeed and schooling
FoodsOmnivore -- not picky
BreedingEasy with hormones
Threats

Low oxygen


  




Red-tail schwanefeldis look most attractive. 

Name:  “Tinfoil” refers to the metallic sheen of their scales.  “Barb” refers to the two sets of barbels that grow from their mouths.  Originally called red-tail tinfoil barbs because of their red tail and red fins, tinfoils now come in several different varieties -- all attractive in their own right.  A school of tinfoil barbs -- young, medium, or mature adults -- never fails to catch your attention.  Their colors, size, and speed make them a classic favorite and a good mixer with many varied species.



At 10 inches, tinfoil barbs are formidable eating machines.
Origin:  Tinfoil barbs are widespread across much of Southeast Asia.  They consider them a tasty food fish and a small sport fish.  Most of our tinfoils come from fish farms in this region.
 
Looks like these guys bashed into the ends of their tank too many times.

Smacked Noses:  Startled tinfoil barbs tend to jump out or run into the ends of their tank.  You can avoid smashed mouth tinfoils by putting plastic plants at the ends of their tank.  Avoid desiccated tinfoils by covering your tank tightly.
Temperature:  Room temp to 80F works well for tinfoil barbs.  Higher temps can take the oxygen out of their water -- more on this later.

Most people buy their tinfoil barbs at this under two-inch size.  This one's a yellow tail.


Here's a small albino tinfoil barb -- one of eight or so varieties available today.

Tinfoil barbs easily grow to "eatin' size."
Size:  In the wild, tinfoil barbs top out at 16 inches.  Happily, they max out at a smaller size in our tanks.  Their size and speed make them a small sport fish where they come from.  They never come close to the lunker catfishes they grow over there, but they fight well and are tasty.  Huge lunkers are rarely the tastiest fish in the pond. 

Not a lot of color at four inches.
Age:  Most tinfoil keepers shed themselves of their former charges before they approach anywhere near their full potential.  They trade them in at somewhere around six inches, never coming close to seeing how attractive these large barbs (the largest barbs, by the way) can become.

Tinfoil barb right in the melee's middle.  They mix with many American cichlids.
Schoolers:  Sure, you can keep one tinfoil barb in your tank if you are so inclined.  But you’ll enjoy them more if you keep several.  They hang together like Goths, Slackers, and Tokers.  When one zips off, the others are in close pursuit.  Singles may tend to nip a bit instead of hanging with their own kind.  

Three-inch tinfoil barb co-existing with a five-inch electric yellow (several of both in this tank).

Half-grown schwanefeldi barbs co-existing with arowanas.
Mixers:  Of course you can mix Tinfoil barbs with other barbs.  You can also mix them with non-fancy goldfish.  They might pester angels and long-finned goldfish, but they get along great with most of the local toughs -- oscars, dempseys, and many assorted American cichlids.  They also mix with many of the African cichlids (at least the sissy ones like peacocks and electric yellows).
Substrate:  Probably their substrate makes more difference to their owners than it does to the tinfoils.  A darker substrate darkens or intensifies their colors.  Use a substrate that permits good filtration.

Security:  Tinfoil barbs rarely hide.  They don’t need to.  They are faster than most predators.  They are more effort for predators to catch than most predators are willing to put forth.  Tinfoils also school, which further confuses predators.  Like in the cartoons where the dumb villain asks:  “Which way did he go?  Which way did he go?”
Water Conditions:  Schwanefeldi originally came from soft, slightly acid waters.  They adapt instantly to our Des Moines moderately hard, slightly basic water.  However, their waste products can convert our water to yellow, slightly acid water.  They do appreciate frequent water changes.  They eat like piggies and excrete like piggies.

Tinfoils like both vegetation and meaty foods.  They're true omnivores.

Tinfoil barbs chowing on the peel of a zucchini left by the silver dollars.

Tinfoils love eating plants, but check the mouth of the guy in the middle.
Feeding:  While your other fish are still looking over your wine list, your tinfoil barbs have already devoured their rations and are saying:  “Please, sir, may I have another?”  Your tinfoil barbs will always be first, second, and third in the chow line -- depending on just how many of the hungry little beggars you keep in your tank.

The two smaller males tried to spawn this chunky four-inch female.  They all eat like piggies.
Breeding:  Of course, you can breed tinfoil barbs.  The pros breed them like the DNR guys at our Spirit Lake Walleye Factory.  Tinfoils are ready to rock and roll at two year of age.  You need two males per plump female.  Each female spews 5,000 eggs on average.  You condition them with CPE (Carp Pituitary Extract) and HCG (Human Chorionic Gonadatropin), knock 'em out with Quinaldine, squeeze the eggs and sperms out, and aerate the fertilized eggs in those conical cylinders.  If you can get the ingredients, the rest is simple.  You will also need a micro-hypodermic needle and a good scale.  Good luck with your 5,000 baby tinfoils.
Threats:  You never see it mentioned in the literature but these guys need well aerated water.  If your power goes off, your tinfoil barbs die first, then your bala sharks, and so on.  If you move a batch of fish in a bucket, your tinfoils belly up first.  Maybe none of the others even look uncomfortable.  If you forget and leave a tank draining while you get distracted, your tinfoils, balas, and iridescent sharks are all on the “Most Likely to Croak” list.

Last Words:  If you have the room and  the patience, tinfoil barbs make excellent aquatic residents.  They’re not expensive, they just look expensive.

Tiger Fish

Tiger Fish:

Scientific Name:Puntius tetrazona, formerly Barbus tetrazona
Family:Cyprinidae
Size:3 inches
Temperature:68 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit
Alkalinity:Undemanding
Origin:Sumatra, Borneo

Tiger barbs (Puntius tetrazona) are beautiful aquarium residents that are commonly offered for sale in most pet stores and aquarium shops. The natural range of tiger barbs covers areas of Southeast Asia and they are not only frequently imported but also commercially bred. Tiger barbs are considered to be hardy and long lived aquarium residents as long as their undemanding needs are met. An ideal Ph range is in the neighborhood of 6.5 to 7.5 although lower and higher values can be tolerated. Temperature range should fall between 68 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit and ammonia and nitrate levels should be kept as close to zero as possible.Tiger barbs are not fussy eaters and can be offered various foods including high quality tropical flakes, veggie flakes, brine shrimp, spirulina enhanced brine shrimp, sinking granules, algae wafers, bloodworms, beefheart, and small pelleted foods. 
Adult size for tiger barbs is right under 3 inches and a minimum tank size is 20 gallons. Tiger barbs are a very active shoaling species that benefit from the company of their own kind. With this in mind at least 6 tiger barbs should be kept together at a time with a larger number always being better. This number is not only in place due to their shoaling behavior but also to disperse aggression. If you keep too small a number of tiger barbs together they are likely to quarrel to the point of which the smaller and weaker tiger barbs will suffer. By creating a shoal of tiger barbs a pecking order will become established which disperses the aggression amongst the large number of fishes.
Tank-mates for tiger barbs should be chosen carefully as their fin-nipping and aggressive behavior can become quite bothersome towards certain species. Fish with long flowing fins such as angelfish, bettas, and gouramies should be avoided as their fins are too much of a temptation for eager tiger barbs. Fish with a very small adult size such as neon tetras and dwarf rasboras should also be avoided as the tiger barbs will most likely outright kill them over time. With this in mind it would be safe to categorize the tiger barb as a "robust community species" that can be housed with other robust medium sized fishes. This is in contrast to the occasional erroneous categorization of tiger barbs simply as "community fish" as many fish that fall under this broad category will face inevitable peril if housed with tiger barbs.
If you are interested in maintaining tiger barbs and are unsure if they will get along with a certain species that you are maintaining, do some internet research or in person research at a reliable aquarium shop. There are many possibilities of species that can be combined with tiger barbs and we used the following combination in a wonderful 75 gallon planted display tank when I worked at a local fish store: 20 tiger barbs, 12 giant danios (Danio aequipinnatus), 6 yo yo loaches (Botia lohachata), and 6 horse-face loaches (Acantopsis choirorhynchus).

Friday 5 September 2014

Severum


Severum:

The Golden Severum is one of a slew of varieties derived from the common and popular Severum Cichlid. All Severum Cichlids Heros severus are easily recognized and popular with both beginner and advanced aquarists. Severum Cichlids tend to resemble their larger cousins, the Discus cichlids, in body shape and feature a laterally compressed oval shaped frame. Their strongest deviation from the Discus fish is in their coloring and size. The Severum Ciclids tend to only reach about 7 inches (18 cm) whereas Discus can reach up to about 12 inches (31 cm). 
In its natural form, the Severum Cichlid is a greenish color with a yellow/gold tint to the belly. Juveniles have eight pronounced black vertical bands, though these tend to fade as they become adults. This striping has led to some other interesting common names like Banded Cichlid, Convict Fish, Deacon, Sedate Cichlid, Hero, and Striped Cichlid. The Golden Severum, or Gold Severum, is a captive bred color morph that lacks the black bands of the orginal form and has a yellow color over its entire body except for the dorsal and tail fins, which tend to be whiter with yellow specks.
Severum Cichlid varieties are avialable in a wide range of colors and tend to be very inexpenisve, prompting the reference to them as the "poor man's discus." Don't let this remark bias you, however. Since they are so inexpensive, require less stringent care than discus, and are still a beautiful and interesting addition to an aquarium, they might be a much better choice for many fishkeepers. 
They also have a great disposition and display some unique behaviors which has helped them accumulate a wide and devout following. They tend to be less aggressive than many cichlids but do need plenty of space. They are mostly peaceful when kept with other similarly sized and tempered fish (except when spawning) and can be kept singly or as a mated pair. That being said, do not keep them with fish significantly smaller than themselves or with aggressive fish.
Golden Severums are moderately difficult to care for, but not as difficult as Discus and many other cichlids. As long as the owner is diligent in performing frequent water changes, they will generally respond well and live long and comfortable lives. They prefer softer water and it is important that you keep a lid on their aquarium as they tend to jump in the air when startled. 
To keep them happiest, Include a decor of rocks along with pieces of sunken driftwood. Try to setup the aqairum decoration so that it provides natural "barriers" and divisions in the tank; this way the fish will feel like it has a defined and secure "territory" to defend They enjoy living in well planted aquariums and will appreciate floating plants as they like to spend time hiding in the leaves and appreciate the security offered by the plants. 


  • Kingdom: Animalia
  • Phylum: Chordata
  • Class: Actinopterygii
  • Order: Perciformes
  • Family: Cichlidae
  • Genus: Heros
  • Species: severus



They are from South American rivers such as the Orinoco River basin and drainage in Colombia and Venezuela, as well as the Amazon River basin and the upper Negro River basin. They eat plants, algae, zooplankton, insects and detritus.
  • Scientific Name: Heros severus
  • Social Grouping: Pairs
  • IUCN Red List: - This fish does not appear in the wild.
Description:
The Severum, like the Discus, is a high-bodied and laterally compressed fish with pointed anal and dorsal fins. They are a moderately sized cichlid which reach around 7 3/4 inches (20 cm) in length and have a life span of about 10 years.
The original Severum Cichlid presents a greenish body color with a yellowish gold belly. Juveniles display eight dark and pronounced black vertical bands along their sides, though these bands generally fade as the the fish ages into maturity. It is these bands which gave rise to their common name 'Banded Cichlid'.They have an interesting 'stance' giving them the seeming appearance of always looking up. Several colors have been produced by tank breeding such as brown, green, gold, and turquoise.
The Golden Severum is one such captive bred color morph of the Severum Cichlid. They have the same deep oval shaped body but are pale yellow/gold in color. Their anal, pelvic and pectoral fins are all yellow, while the tail and dorsal fin tend to be a white with yellow specks. Their eyes are yellow as well.
All cichlids, along with some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish, share a common feature of a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth located in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming.
Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related.
  • Size of fish - inches: 7.9 inches (19.99 cm)
  • Lifespan: 10 years
Fish Keeping Difficulty
The Severums are one of the most popular cichlids in home aquariums. Though they can be appropriate for fishkeepers of all experience levels, it is important to understand that they are a large fish and will have rapidly changing needs as they grow.  They are fairly easy to take care of for a fishkeeper with some cichlid experience and can be kept by a begginer who is well informed and diligent in their maintenance. 
  • Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy
  • Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate
Foods and Feeding
The Golden Severum is an omnivore that likes pellets or stick foods for large cichlids. They can be fed green peas (which is a favorite), or zucchini that you have blanched. Earthworms, bloodworms, mealworms, and marine crustaceans are also enjoyed.
Do not feed beef heart or liver as these items are very hard for the Severum to digest and can lead to illness. Feed 2 to 5 small pinches of food a day in smaller amounts instead of a large quantity once a day. This will keep the water quality higher over a longer time. A one day a week fast is also beneficial. All fish benefit from vitamins andsupplements added to their foods.
  • Diet Type: Omnivore
  • Flake Food: Yes
  • Tablet Pellet: Yes
  • Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
  • Vegetable Food: Some of Diet
  • Meaty Food: Some of Diet
  • Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day
Aquarium Care:
The Golden Severum are fairly easy to care for provided the water is kept clean. Aquariums are closed systems and regardless of size all will need some maintenance. Over time decomposing organic matter, nitrates, and phosphate build up and the water hardness increases due to evaporation. To combat these ever changing conditions water should be replaced on a regular basis. Perform water changes of 10 - 20% biweekly or weekly, more or less depending on stocking numbers.
In addition, use an algae magnet or scraper to keep viewing panes clear of built up algae. Also note that for this fish to maintain the best coloring you will need to maintain oxygen levels. 
  • Water Changes: Bi-weekly
Aquarium Setup:
These are large fish and require a relatively large aquarium, at least 45 gallons for a single fish and at least 100 gallons for a breeding pair. The larger the aquarium, the lesss aggressive they will be. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater and prefer slow to moderate moving water along with good efficient filtration. Maintain low to moderate lighting and softer water as well as a lid to keep them from jumping out of the tank when scared.
Provide a decor that will allow a 'natural' division in territories, including using rocks and sunken driftwood to create caves and alleyways for them to guard and retreat into. The driftwood will help lower the pH and also give off the 'teastained' look common to the South American rivers where they originate. They do enjoy a densely plantedaquarium and will do well with both living and plastic plants. Be sure to include some floating live plants as they enjoy "hanging out" amongst their leaves. Plants in the substrate will need to be anchored down since they do tend to dig. If using live plants try Anubias or Cryptocoryne. 
To give these fish a natural feel add a few handfuls of dried leaves and add a bag of aquarium safe peat to the filter to simulate black water conditions.
  • Minimum Tank Size: 45 gal (170 L) - 45 gallons for a single fish and 100 gallons for a pair.
  • Substrate Type: Sand
  • Lighting Needs: Low - subdued lighting
  • Temperature: 74.0 to 84.0° F (23.3 to 28.9° C)
  • Breeding Temperature: - 78.8 - 80.6° F (26 - 27° C)
  • Range ph: 6.0-6.5
  • Hardness Range: 4 - 6 dGH
  • Brackish: Yes - Slightly brackish water is acceptable.
  • Water Movement: Moderate
  • Water Region: Middle
Social Behaviors:
The Golden Severum should be kept with other fish of the same size and temperament, and who enjoy the same water conditions. Do not keep it with aggressive fish.
While South American cichlids (including the Golden Severum) tend to be less aggressive than their African cousins, providing adequate space is still very important. They can be kept singly in a 45 gallon tank or as a mated pair in a tank of at least 100 gallons. They will tolerate other Severum varities only in a very large tank, well over 100 gallons, but are more tolerant of other species of fish. Having a lot of room will alleviate general aggression and having some very fast and alert dither fish will help the mated pair's aggression towards each other during spawning.
Suitable tankimates include other cichlids such as the Flag Cichlid,  Aequidens species such as the Blue Acara , eartheaters such as the Pearl Cichlid, and large Angelfish. In addition, they can do well with catfish species such as those from the Loricariid and Callichyid genera. Other suitable large tankmates include some of the cyprinid speciessuch as barbs and sharks, loaches, large characins like the Silver Dollars, and similar sized gouramis.
  • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
  • Compatible with:
    • Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They can be kept in pairs and with others of the same species if kept in a large aquarium.
    • Peaceful fish (): Monitor - They will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth.
    • Semi-Aggressive (): Monitor
    • Aggressive (): Monitor
    • Large Semi-Aggressive (): Monitor
    • Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Monitor
    • Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Monitor
    • Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive
    • Plants: Safe
Sex: Sexual differences
The female has a dark spot on the dorsal and lacks patterning on her head. The male has more pointed anal and dorsal fins. Mature males that are well fed can develop a nuchal hump.
Breeding / Reproduction:
The Golden Severum are a captive bred color form of the Severum. Like their parentage they are open breeders and both parents will care for the young. They do not pair up as readily as some, so buy 6 to 8 young (just like with Discus) and let them choose their partners. The sexes can be identified when young, with the female lacking marks on her gills and presenting a smaller body size than the male.
Compared to their normal water conditions, the water must be softer, warmer and more acidic for the eggs to develop properly. They will accept a fairly wide range of water conditions. For optimal breeding conditions maintain the water at a total hardness of 50 ppm with a pH in the 6's and a temperature between 78.8 - 80.6° F (26 - 27° C). Some have said adding live feeder crickets to the water helps them to be conditioned to spawn. The male will darken and intensify his colors when breeding. They will lock lips and tail slap before actually spawning.
A tank with a bare bottom and an air stone works great. Also a heater and lots of water changes are needed for success.They like flat or round rocks and chunks of wood upon which to spawn. The female will lay up to 1,000 oval eggs on roots or stones, depending on her age and size. The male will fertilize them and they will both defend them.
Once the eggs hatch and they are still in the pre-swimming larval stage, the parents will take them into their mouths. Once they are free swimming the parents will allow them to hunt for foods like freshly hatched brine shrimp, ground up flake or pellet food, micro worms, and daphnia. The parents will care for them for up to 6 weeks. Removing the egg clutch after the pair have spawned will result in a larger brood if you are breeding them. See more about cichlid breeding in: Breeding Freshwater Fish: Cichlids.
  • Ease of Breeding: Moderate
Fish Diseases:
They are subject to infections as well as other diseases that ail all freshwater fish. One common problem is Ich. It can be treated with the elevation of the tank temperature to 86° F (30° C) for a few days since they can tolerate higher temperatures. They are sensitive to medications, so make sure you do your research.
Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE), which is also called "hole-in-the-head" disease is common with poor water conditions. This looks like cavities or pits on the head and face. It is believed this may be a nutritional deficiency of one or more of: Vitamin C, Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus. It is thought to be caused by a poor diet or lack of variety, lack of partial water changes, or over filtration with chemical media such as activated carbon.
As with most fish the Severum Cichlids are prone to skin flukes and other parasitic infestations (protozoa, worms, etc.), fungal infections, and bacterial infections. It is recommended to read up on the common tank diseases. Knowing the signs and catching and treating them early makes a huge difference. For information about freshwater fish diseases and illnesses, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.
Anything you add to your tank can bring disease to your tank. Not only other fish but plants, substrate, and decorations can harbor bacteria. Take great care and make sure to properly clean or quarantine anything that you add to an established tank so not to upset the balance.

Bala shark

Bala shark:

The Bala shark, Balantiocheilos melanopterus, is also known as Silver shark, Tricolor Shark and Tricolor sharkminnow. It is a freshwater species, with a maximum size of 14-16", and it is commonly kept in larger aquariums. The male Bala sharks grow larger than the females. The Bala shark is not really a shark; it is a bony fish and belongs to the class Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes), the order Cypriniformes (carps) and the family Cyprinidae. The Bala shark is called shark due to its sleek and shark-like body shape. The Cyprinidae family includes several well known fish groups such as carps, danios, barbs and minnows. 

The Bala shark has a silver coloured body and black margins on its dorsal, caudal, anal and pelvic fins. The body shape is slender and convex, and the dorsal fin is shaped like a triangle. The mouth is somewhat downfacing and without barbles. 

Wild Bala shark is found in Asia; in the Mekong and Chao Phraya basins, around the Malay Peninsula and in the waters surrounding Borneo and Sumatra. It inhabits the midwater regions of large and moderately sized lakes and rivers. It is considered endangered and is almost extinct in many Asian river basins. The minimum population doubling time for the Bala shark is 1.4 - 4.4 years. 

The Bala shark is a popular aquarium fish and is easy to keep in captivity. It is hardy and tough and will not require a lot of pampering from its keeper. The Bala shark is also appreciated for its beautiful silvery colouration. Unfortunately it can grow too big for many home aquariums. It is frequently sold as a small juvenile in pet shops and many buyers do not realise exactly how large this fish can grow and how large the aquarium must be. It is a docile species and will rarely show any aggressive behaviour. Even fish that is smaller than the Bala shark will usually be safe in the aquarium, and the Bala sharks are therefore often kept with small tetras and similar. Even though the Bala shark is docile and non-aggressive, it is seldom bullied by other fish in a community aquarium since the Bala shark is large and also very swift. It is recommended to keep a group of at least five individuals. Several Bala sharks will stay together and feel much safer in the aquarium. A single Bala shark can become stressed and nervous and hide a lot. It might also uproot plants and gravel. 

picture of Bala Shark
A Bala shark will usually require at least a 48 inches aquarium to do well. Use live plants when you decorate the aquarium, but leave larger areas open for swimming. Try to resemble its natural habitat when you decorate the aquarium since this makes the fish feel more secure. Wild Bala sharks are found in streams and rivers in Southeast Asia, where aquatic plants provide shelters and hiding spots. The Bala shark is a very energetic fish and you will see it swimming around in all areas of the aquarium. It will also carefully search the bottom substrate, looking for lost pieces of food from earlier feeding. The aquarium must be safely covered since the Bala shark is a very strong jumper. When placed in a new aquarium it might take a few days until the Bala sharks feel comfortable in their new home. During this time there is an even greater risk of them trying to escape the aquarium by jumping out of it. Keep the water temperatures in the 72ºF to 84ºF (22-29°C) range. The pH should be neutral or slightly alkaline; a pH value between 5.8 and 7.8 is recommended. The Bala shark will do best in soft or medium hard water with a dH in the 5.0 to 15.0 range. 

The Bala shark will happily eat almost anything you feed it and will readily accept flake foods. Its natural diet consists of phytoplankton, rotifers, insects, insect larvae and tiny crustaceans and it will appreciate live foods. The Bala shark is an omnivorous species and will eat meaty foods as well as algae and vegetables. It is a scavenger and will carefully look for any left over food from earlier feedings in the aquarium. The Bala shark will also help keeping algae growth under control. 

There are reports of Bala sharks spawning in aquariums and they are frequently bred by professional breeders in Asia. Bala sharks are egg scatterers and uses external fertilization. They do not guard their eggs or fry. In the wild, Bala sharks migrate to special breeding ground to engage in mass spawning. A Bala shark will become sexually mature when it is between 10 and 15 cm long. 

Picture of a School of Bala Sharks
Bala sharks will often function as “parrots” in the aquarium since they can warm you about an outbreak of Ich. If the Bala shark tries to peel of its scales against rocks and other aquarium decoration, an outbreak of Ich will most likely soon take place in the aquarium. Start treating all your fish with Ich medication as soon as you notice this behaviour. This way you will be able to kill of the Ich parasites before things escalate further. 
The Bala shark's popularity as an aquarium fish has unfortunately lead to severe over fishing in some areas of the world. Many collectors have an extremely high mortality rate among their catch, which makes them capture even more individuals. Since the Bala shark is a relatively short lived species, large amounts of Bala sharks have to be collected to satisfy the market. Some collectors began to collect breeding individuals from the breeding grounds before the mature Bala sharks had a chance to produce offspring, which naturally resulted in a severe decrease of wild Bala sharks after just a few years. Fortunately enough, the Bala shark has got a second chance. While the wild populations become nearly extinct in several parts of Asia, the populations in Thailand were still large and thriving. Several breeders managed to successfully breed Bala sharks in captivity and today a majority of the Bala sharks found in pet shops are cultured fish.